Curitiba or bust.....

September 28 2010

I think three days in Buzios was plenty. I woke up on Monday with the distinct feeling that it was time to go. Buzios is amazing. It is a quaint, gorgeous place made for the rich and beautiful, and the lifestyle suites that accordingly. I feel like everything I did was in excess. I drank too much, shopped too much, ate too much (but slept too little....) had a blast, but it was time to move on.

10 hours on a bus (with a stop over in Rio) landed me back in Sao Paulo (aka home base) last night at 9pm. Pedro picked me up from the bus station and I stayed at his place again (aka home). Man it felt good to have a private room and a hot shower!! my head hit the pillow and I didn~t move all night.

Jardim Botanical Garden

This morning, I was dropped off near the metro to navigate my way to Curitiba, which is in Parana state. And, after another 8 hours on a bus, here I am.

My first impressions of Curitiba are not great...(not bad, but not great) I didn´t do any planning first, and because I arrived after dark, I am staying in an upscale hotel right in the city centre ($$) which I had to catch a taxi to get to ($$$). My only reason to be here is to see the Jardim Botanical Gardens, which I have been reading about for a year.

Better be good Jardim, better be good.

Tonight, here is some street fair happening outside the hotel, so I took a wander, but nothing to see except some hand crafts and baked goods. Time to look at some tourist info and wrap my head around this city.The plan is to stay here until Friday, as my last stop before I head back to Sampa (Sao Paulo) for one last hurrah with my friends.

Can't believe its almost over...I feel like Im just getting started.

Partying in Buzios, Rio

September 25, 2010

I woke up yesterday morning in Rio, and had to make a quick decision about where to next (check out was at noon) so, upon suggestion from my hostel room mate, I took a taxi to the Rio Bus station (not nearly as danderous as my travel book warned) and bought a ticket to Buzios, a BEAUTIFUL, expensive, boutique vacation village about 2 1/2 hours north of Rio de Janeiro. So, Here I am, in the infamous vacation home of Bridget Bardot: Buzios, Rio de Janeiro.

I am staying at the ´Nomad Hostel´ its right on the beach, and my room faces the ocean. And, thanks again to low season, I have the dorm to myself! nice. I met a bunch of girls from the hostel, 3 Dutch, and 2 Swiss...it was their last night here, and wanted to celebrate, so we all got dressed up and hit the town for some fun fun fun.

There is a big surf competition in Buzios right now, so there was a big dance party in the street for the event...there was a dj and a camera crew, very cool. After the street party, we headed to a Forro bar down the road and danced all night. We all woke up slightly traumatized, but flattered, by the Brazilian men and their forwardness- we all laughed about it at breakfast this morning.

Today, Im heading over to watch the surfing competition, then out for another big party tonight...I think I will enjoy it here in Buzios :)

Futebol in Rio de Janerio

September 23, 2010

Wow. what a night.

Dispite the fact that no one from my Hostel was going to the futebol game, I decided I wasnt going to miss this opportunity. The taxi bus stopped at a few hostels other than mine. First, and Aussie and a Canadian got on, then, two more Aussies!!! (just my luck!). Then, at the last hostel,10 guys got on the bus, and wait for it...they were a Canadian soccer team in Rio for a futebol tournament!!! (not even kidding you).

The game was incredible! The fanfare was like nothing I have ever seen before.........the PASSION! I was standing most of the game and yelling along with the crowd, you can~t help but embrace the moment. The give you toilet paper, balloons and confetti to throw too, it was so amazing. Luckily (in my opinion) the game was a tie so post game there was no infamous brawling.

I am about to go for a run along the beach (Ipanema) and today I tour the city... I can't wait :)

When my baby smiles at me I go to Rio...

Sept 21 2010

Its hard to be afraid of the big bad city when Barry Manalo is stuck in your head...

Here I am in Rio De Janeiro. Before I go any further, there are a few details of the last few days I need to mention. I will never forget Ilha Grande. First of all, there are no cars and no bank machines, so you can~t help but to relaaaaax. It rained for 2 of the 4 days I was on the island, which worked out fine, because the days I had planned outings, the weather cooperated. Andrei was awesome, he took me on a hike through the rainforrest and into the village to hang out with his friends, he definitely gave me a different perspective of the island.

I stayed an extra day because I had met a local artist who makes little statues of people. I had admired a few I had seen around town, so when I met him, I asked if he could do one for me, he said yes, but it would take 2 days. Its really cool! he did a great job, but now I have a delicate 20 cm statue to care for for the rest of my travels.




Yesterday, September 20th, I went on a 2 1/2 hour treck through the hills and valleys of the atlantic rainforrest, a trip well worth while, since the destination was Lopez Mendes Praia...the 7th most beautiful beach in the WORLLLLLLLLD (insert big announcer voice). The best part about traveling in low-season....the beach was almost deserted!!! Unluckily, I had met an Irish fellow on my travels who sort of tagged along, and talked A LOT...but that only slightly tarnished the experience.

Lopez Mendes Praia

This morning, I left Ilha Grande. My boat was at 9 am (its about a 1 hour trip), but Andrei sent me to the wrong peir, so, I missed the commercial boat. Luckily, the travel agency arranged for me to go on a tiny little private boat (made for 10 people) instead. WHAT GREAT NEWS! Except, the boat stalled exactly half way between the island and the mainland.

The next hour of my life was spend floating in a tiny boat in the Atlantic Ocean, while the 3 workers repaired the engine. I really wish I understood what they were saying because in my head it was `nice to know you Flavio...we´re going down...´ anyway, eventually the engine started and we made it to shore.

Once we got to shore, I had a new challenge of finding my way to Rio. The boat I missed in the morning was a direct link to Ipanema Beach (aka stress free trip) but now, I am half way to Rio with no clue which way to go.

*Mum, dad, please don't read the next paragraph:

I ended up hitching a ride. A car with a man, woman, and 2 kids pulled up to me at the bus station and we haggled a price to Rio. I had no better option at this point, and I figured kids and wife = safe. Its about a 1 1/2 hour drive to Rio, so I was really happy to have a direct ride, right to my hostel. I tooke a chance, but it worked out great.

The next few days are supposed to be sunny and 28 so looks I picked a good time to be here. Tonight, I am going for dinner, then watching the sunset from the beach(a reccomendation from my hostel clerk) Tomorrow night I am going to a futebol (soccer) game, and have booked a full day tour of the city on Thursday.

Ilha Grande, Rio

I have been in Ilha Grande for 2 days now. The trip didnt start off so nice, because in the mad rush to make the bus, I forgot my passport in the hostel locker (in Paraty)...I remembered this little detail as the bus was about to leave...luckily they let me off and I managed to get my stuff. Rookie mistake.

SO! Let me tell you about Ilha Grande!! I booked a room at the youth hostel based on a reccomendation from some friends in Paraty- it was such a bomb, I can~t even tell you how bad- because whatever you are thinking, it was worse. Plus, I had to share a tiny dorm room with 2 guys, a german and a Pomme. During the night, some drunk guy jumped into the hostel pool, but there was no water in it and, tragically, hes in the hospital and might not make it. it was a crazy night.

So, first thing in the morning, I packed my bags and decided to treat myself to a few nights in a Pousada...The sun was shining and the weather was 30 degrees, so I decided to rent some snorkel gear, I stumbled across a boat that was about to leave for a full day of sailing, so, I hopped on.

Ilha Grande

Blue Lagoon

The tour guide, Andre, was awesome. When we stopped at one of the islands, he asked me if I wanted to see my own private beach...so we left the group and headed through some forrest to the most pristine beach I have ever seen. While the rest of the group was having lunch, we swam. Later last night, we met up again and he showed me how to make real Brazilian Caiprinhas, and we wandered the town, and eneded up watching and dancing to a Bossa Nova band playing in the street. Great night...!

Today is rainy, so I am not doing much. I have booked 2 more days on the island because it is too beautiful to leave. Not sure what the plan is after that....

Island Hopping in Rio

Wednesday September 14, 2010

Paraty is amazing. Its such a quaint lazy town (very touristy, and very safe). The boat ride yesterday was incredible. 7 of us piled into a small 2 storey boat and spent the day Island hopping and sipping on coctails. We snorkled at each island, and we saw lots of fish, turtles, and even a big crab! The temperature was about 32 degrees and sunny, absolutely perfect day.

In the evening, a group of Brazilians were at the hostel learning Portuguese, so they asked if I could sit down and speak with them for a while so they could practice their english...I ended up getting a Portuguese lesson too. Happily, I already knew a lot of the phrases they were teaching me! woo hoo! slowly, very slowly Im learning. Today, I wandered to the Historical Centre of Paraty, which is a BEAUTIFUL maze of cobble stone streets and colorful buildings...so many beautiful artifacts and clothes. Its a lazy day, kind of overcast, and all the people I have been hanging out with are moving on (correction, the hostel is called Casa de Rio Hostel, I was just guessing with my last post)

I will be catching a bus (then a boat) tomorrow morning to an island called Ilho Grande which is about an hour north of here. Ive come a long way from my gum purchase in Sao Paulo...now Im booking travel on my own. all I needed was a little time to familiarize myself with Brazil. Now, I love it.

Paraty, BR

September 14 2010

Well the posts will likely be far and few between for the next week...I made a move to a gorgeous beach town called Paraty (pronounced Para-chi, not Partaaaaaaay!). Its a 6 hour bus ride through some of the most gorgeous landscape I have ever seen in my life...no descriptions can do it justice, but it was amazing.

O'Malley's Pub, Sao Paulo

My birthday weekend was unreal.. on Friday night, all of my Brazilian friends came out to a bar called OMalleys, at midnight, they sang a Brazilian version of Happy Birthday (and then the American version for us foreigners!) Fer and his girlfriend got me a Victor & Leo DVD (they are like Jorge & Mateus) some Brazilian lotion, and a bracelet!

It was an incredible night.

Jorge e Mateus Concert

Daniela picked me up from Pe s house Saturday morning. The Jorge e Mateus concert on Saturday night was like nothing I have ever seen before...It was so fun! I didn't realize it until we got there, but we had VIP seating, so we were right at the stage! They are awesome entertainers and I danced the entire time. The band didn't start until 1:30am, and we didnt get back home until 7am!

Needless to say, I slept all day.

Sunday (later that day) we went out again for Danielas birthday, we went to a restaurant style bar called Dona Flora where I tried Brazilian two stepping for the first time. it is farrr more sensual than the american two stepping, and I have a long way to go before my hips move like that, but my dance partner was patient and it was really fun!

Now Im I am staying at a really quaint hostel called Rio de Hostel, and spent last night drinking cervejas with 5 English, 1 Dutch, and a Brazilian...we are all meeting this morning at 10am for a day-long boat ride out to some of the islands near by. After a week in the city, I am really looking forward to getting some sun

Paraty, Rio de Janairo

ps my appologies for the typos and grammar errors, these keyboards are set for Portuguese.

Heidi´s Big City Adventure

Friday September 10, 2010

I learned a valuable (and expensive) lesson yesterday about Brazil and their plug-ins. They have 110 and 220 volts in each outlet (one of each). In an attempt to be a good house guest, I started a pot of coffee in the morning, and didnt take note of which outlet I used to plug in the coffee maker (why would I!?). Needless to say, coffee machine vs. 220 volts....220 volts won. A trip to the shopping centre and 99 Reis later, I now know to check the plug ins first.

Today, Pe dropped me off on Paulista Avenue on his way to work, after a few hours of window shopping and walking around downtown, I started to relax and enjoy. I went to starbucks for a coffee, and the barista spoke english. I was telling him how, when it comes to Portuguese, I seemed to have forgotten EVERYTHING I learned!! He said it was the same for him when he went to the US, that he was really nervous to speak and it took him 3 months to get comfortable with it. His advice: dont be so nervous. So, he wrote down a few Brazilian musicians and suggested I listed to them, and sent me on my way.

Getting home from the city wasn´t so easy...I got myself really turned around, and forgot where the bus stop was. I tried ask a guard at the hospital, but he (obviously) didn´t understand me because he handed what I think was a guest pass and buzzed me into the lobby. lol.

When I finally found the bus stop, my bus took a different route from yesterday, and I totally started to panic. I´m not going to lie, my heart is in my throat whenever I am tying to navigate this huge metropolis on my own...its really hard to begin with (for anyone, even without the language barrier) but if you know me, you know I especially suck at directions. Even in Edmonton. It didn´t help that I forgot my phone at home too...(no comments needed here).

I finally made it home, and after a BIG exhale, I ventured out again- with my phone this time. I walked down the street to a cafe ordered a sandwich and a beer (and it only cost 9 ries! ($5). sitting outside and drinking a beer in the sun was a nice ending to the afternoon *insert high five here* for ordering my first meal on my own.

Tonight, I am meeting friends at O´Malleys for drinks. I can´t wait! Fabio, my Brazilian friend in Edmonton, told me about O´Malleys before I left (it is one of his favorite bars in SP) in fact, one of his mates might even meet me there! Should be a good night, but it´s bitter sweet, because I am well aware that after this weekend, I am on my own. And yes, I am losing a little sleep over that....

Anyway, I´m trying not to think about that too much. Tonight......we drink!!!!

Bubblegum and Pedicures

Thursday September 9, 2010

Today has been frustrating and symbolic. I had the whole day to myself, since everyone is back to work. The sun was shining for the first time since I got here, so, I decided to go for a walk around the neighbourhood.

My mission: to purchase something (anything!) just to know that I could....

So, I wandered passed a hardware store, clothing shop, and few restaurants, and finally came to a streetside news stand selling magazines, newspapers etc etc. this seemed like the least intimidating option of them all so I stepped inside and started gesturing at the gum and handed the man my money. It worked! this was a small but monumental victory!

On my way home, I stopped in at a beauty salon, four women in white uniforms were standing at the reception. I pointed to my fingers/toes and said ´quanto?´ (how much?) and they replied ´33 Reis´ (which is about $15CAD) for a manicure AND pedicure! holy! so, I made an appointment for later today (we both spoke in our native language, yet I know that I have an appointment at 4:30). lol.

Since I had the time today, I tried booking some hostels for the cities I plan to visit. but nobody spoke english at any of the places I called, so I am at square one. I´m finding it faaaaaaaaaaar more difficult than I anticipated to function here. On top of the culture shock, having no means to communicate makes things...interesting.

I am taking advantage of having a computer today, I uploaded some photos on facebook and checked out some places Id like to see...now I´m headed out again to people-watch in the park down the road...

Eu Nao Falo Portuguese...

September 8, 2010

Last night, after a day at the markets, Pe, Tito, Maria and I went to a pub called ´Barro Jures´ for a few beers and conversation.  I tried my first caipirinha (delicious!), and have started to make a few observations about this glorious country.

1) The service here is amazing. The waiters are so attentive and polite, and will even try to speak in english for the gringo (me). I have tried a lot of the local food, a lot of meat, rice, and beans. I woke up this morning a little delicate, but I am hoping it is just from the caiporinha´s and cerveja´s (beer) from last night.

2) Speaking of beer, it is served is so much colder here! so far beer and coffee are superior in Brazil.  I think I will be indulging a lot in both...

3) Traffic:  Sao Paulo has a really interesting system, when license plates are issued, the last number dictates which day of the week you can drive during ´rush hour´ (to ease the traffic congestion). For example, if your license plate ends in a 4, you can drive on Thursday. how cool! Speaking of drivers, its complete organized chaos on the roads, but man, Brazilians are good drivers, they have to be.

Today Pe´s mum, Marialis, dropped me off on Paulista Avenue for my first solo outing! I met up with my friend Fernando and wandered the Avenue, which is one of the most famous streets in Sao Paulo. We grabbed a coffe (I attempted to order my own, but Fer had to interject after 10 minutes- haha) and we checked out the city. I bought Marilis flowers from a street vendor, it was really fun to watch Fer bargain the price for me, the vendor even threw in a ´free´ red rose for me :)

After a few hours of chatting and walking, I did something I am VERY proud of..........I came home on public trasport- BY MYLSEF!! no bid deal you might think...but oh my god, it was hard. When you get on the bus, there is a turnstyle that you go through after you pay your fare, I didnt realize it only rotated once, and didnt  quite make it through- everyone (including the driver and a small child in the front row) laughed (and pointed) at me !  Thank god I made it home, it was so nice to see the familiar streets again. 

30 days in Brazil. Day One.

September 6, 2010

After months of anticipation, I can´t believe I´m finally here! I arrived at the Sao Paulo International airport this afternoon. Pedro and his mum were there to pick me up- as promised, Pe bought me a (real) coffee (aka HEAVEN in a cup), helped me exchange my Canadian dollars for Brazilian reis, then he and his mum took me for a tour of Sao Paulo.

Wow. what an amazing city! The traffic was insane, motorcyclists weave between the cars with no fear, and the amount of vehicles was unreal. As expected, the city is HUGE- I can see how it would be easy to get lost.

After grabbing some meat from a butcher, we all headed back to Pe´s house, (its a really cool villa/townhouse style home) for a hearty lunch of rice and beans, then I headed off for a much-needed shower and nap. The house was empty when I woke up, except for the cleaner (who speaks no English). In a hilarious attempt to communicate, using lots of hand gestures funny looks, I finally peiced together a question `onde esta Pedro?´ (where is pedro?) to which she replied ´voltar logo´ (back soon)then we both laughed at the akwardness of our little interaction. If that is a sign of things to come, I really wish I studied my Portuguese more...

Its Pe´s mum´s birthday tonight, so the family has invited me to join them at a Brazilian Steak House called ´Vento Haragano´ (one of the best in the city). Really looking forward to that! So, my first impressions of Brazil are amazing; Pedro and his family has made me feel so welcome. He even bought me a pair of Havannia´s (Brazil´s unofficial national footwear) that say ´Brazil 10´ on the soles! Quite seriously the perfect gift.

Its an overcast day, and it only reached about 18 degrees, but regardless, it feels tropical and I am in bliss.

Beijos x